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Vegan Ramen

Adapted from Noma Projects, recipe by Kevin Jeung, with the pickled shiitake topping from Tim Anderson's Vegan JapanEasy. A rich, creamy broth built on soy milk, tahini, and miso over a shiitake and kombu stock, topped with the same shiitake pickled in soy sauce. Serves 4. Make the broth base at least 2 hours ahead so the pickle has time; the stock makes twice what you need, see the notes.

Ingredients

Mushroom broth base

• 3½l water
• 120g dried shiitake mushrooms
• 100g dried kombu (kelp)
• 1 star anise
• 4 bay leaves
• 1 garlic bulb, top sliced off
• 1 cinnamon stick
• 80g smoked mushroom garum

Pickled shiitake

Plus 8–10 of the rehydrated shiitake strained out of the broth base.

• 1 dried red chilli, halved (optional, or a pinch of chilli flakes)
• 8 tbsp soy sauce
• 4 tbsp mirin
• 2 tbsp rice vinegar

Ramen broth

Plus half the mushroom broth base above (1½l).

• 1½l unsweetened soy milk
• 120g tahini
• 75g white miso
• 75g smoked mushroom garum
• 2 tsp toasted sesame oil
• Fine salt, to taste
• White pepper, to taste

To finish

• 400g ramen noodles, fresh or dried
• 1 tsp fine salt, for the noodle water
• Nori, cut into 2cm squares, for garnish
• Bean sprouts, for garnish
• Green onions, thinly sliced, for garnish
• Toasted sesame seeds, for garnish

Method

1. Soak the shiitake. Put the 120g dried shiitake mushrooms in a large pot. Bring the 3½l water to a boil separately, pour it over the mushrooms, and soak for 10 minutes.
2. Steep the kombu. Add the 100g kombu and soak 30 minutes more. Remove and discard the kombu.
3. Simmer the base. Add 1 star anise, 4 bay leaves, the garlic bulb, and 1 cinnamon stick to the pot. Simmer for 30 minutes.
4. Strain and season. Strain through a sieve into a heatproof bowl, keeping the shiitake, and stir 80g smoked mushroom garum into the liquid. Use straight away or refrigerate for up to a week. You should have about 3l; the broth below uses half.
5. Pickle the shiitake. Take 8–10 of the strained shiitake, cut off the stems, and slice thinly. Pack into a small jar with the halved dried red chilli and pour over 8 tbsp soy sauce, 4 tbsp mirin, and 2 tbsp rice vinegar. Leave for at least 2 hours; a few days is better. Keeps in the fridge for up to 6 months.
6. Build the broth. Combine 1½l of the mushroom broth base, 1½l soy milk, and 120g tahini in a large pot. Bring to a slow boil.
7. Emulsify the miso. Push the 75g white miso through a fine-mesh strainer straight into the pot and whisk until smooth. Bring back to a simmer.
8. Finish the broth. Take off the heat and add 75g smoked mushroom garum and 2 tsp toasted sesame oil. Season with fine salt and white pepper to taste.
9. Cook the noodles. Bring a medium pot of water to a boil with 1 tsp fine salt. Cook the 400g ramen noodles until tender but springy. Drain in a colander, shaking off the excess water.
10. Serve. Divide the noodles between 4 bowls. Ladle the hot broth over, top with a spoonful of pickled shiitake, nori, bean sprouts, green onions, and toasted sesame seeds, and serve immediately.

Notes

• The broth base makes about 3l and the ramen uses 1½l. Keep the rest in the fridge for a week or freeze it; it makes a good base for miso soup or a noodle broth on its own. Halve everything in the first section if you would rather not have leftovers.
• The pickle only needs 8–10 of the strained shiitake. The rest are still good: slice them into the finished broth, or into a stir-fry.
• The pickled shiitake is intense, so a few slices per bowl is enough. Double the jar if you want it around for other things; the book keeps it for 6 months.
• Smoked mushroom garum is a Noma Projects product. Without it, replace each amount with soy sauce and add a few drops of liquid smoke, or skip the smoke and accept a lighter broth.
• Pushing the miso through a strainer keeps it from clumping; a whisk in a small bowl with a ladle of hot broth does the same job.